So again, the usefulness of the results of these tests whether we can apply these ratings in our everyday usage of skincare products and cosmetics has been overstated. WE Morris and SC Kwan, Use of the rabbit ear model in evaluating the comedogenic potential of cosmetic ingredients, J Soc Cosmet Chem 1983, 34, 215-225. Beeswax - 2. It just means that you have to be extra careful when youre buying products based on the label. Chem 40 (1989): 321-333. There are benefits and drawbacks to using either the REA or human method for determining comedogenicity. It turns out that clogged pores work the same way: Substances that are strongly comedogenic when tested neat (by itself) or in high concentrations become non-comedogenic after sufficient dilution. Kligman, 1996. Chem. For our purposes, it is prudent to avoid a product if a comedogenic ingredient is listed in the top seven (7) ingredients. Draelos, Z. D. & DiNardo, J. C. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. For the better, or for the worse. Are you OK with honey? Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Liquid Makeup $59.00. The scale uses a numbering system of 0 to 5, where Ingredients are rated as following: 0 Will does not clog pores. Talc is the major component of most powder makeup products (think face powder, eyeshadows, and blushers) that usually contain it up to 70%. 3 Moderate. coin98 chrome extension; gotoh 35g450 classical guitar tuners; 3a high school basketball rankings; 2006 chevrolet express cutaway 3500; Home. After they determined that the cosmetic products were non-comedogenic, they examined the ingredient lists of these products and compared their list of comedogenic ingredients to known REA comedogenicity scores. Cosmet Toilet 101, 63 - 72 (1986). Makeupgirl224. They used REA only for other ingredients in sunscreens and not for the ingredients that protect from UV light. The methods used to arrive at the ratings were flawed but testing continues with improved methodology. NO. Heres the big kicker though even if an ingredient is comedogenic on its own, it might not be comedogenic in a product. They are designed to be nongreasy, noncomedogenic with an emphasis on esthetics and maximal skin benefits. Mineral oils comprise a class of oils that have been reported with a range of comedogenicity from 0 - 2. The most common test for comedogenicity is the rabbit ear test, pioneered in cosmetics testing by two famous dermatologists, Albert Kligman and James Fulton, in the 1970s. Hey Michelle, great article. There are some ingredients that are commonly used undiluted, particularly natural oils and butters. Likewise, your skincare products can cause comedones because of the ingredients in them. However, not all substances that clog pores in rabbits clog pores also in humans, so the human method is a more accurate method at determining what clogs pores in humans. Here are the top 10 setting powders that are non-talc and non-comedogenic. Katoulis, A. C., Kakepis, E. M., Kintziou, H., Kakepis, M. E. & Stavrianeas, N. G. Comedogenicity of cosmetics: a review. 2 Moderately Low (Less oily skin) 0-1. However, in final products, a comedogenic ingredient may be in the formula at a much lower percentage, reducing its chance of clogging pores. Weve put together a comprehensive guide to comedogenic ratings and the comedogenic scale. I use arrowroot powder as an all natural translucent powder. When clogged, sebum is unable to perform its function and leads to clogged pores. If rabbit ears dont reflect what happens on human skin, then the obvious solution is to test on humans, right? SPF 50. This means that it is slightly comedogenic and is more likely to clog your pores than something like Abyssinian Seed Oil or Castor Oil. Comedogenic rating of 1: there is a low chance of clogged pores. The same study also found that cosmetics and skincare products containing notable comedogenic ingredients with 4-5 ratings like cocoa butter, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl isostearate didnt increase the formation of microcomedones (baby pimples). Sucrose Palmitate, Laurate, Stearate, and Cocoate. Skin from the subjects back is usually used. Manufacturers are required to list ingredients in the order of their concentration: the highest percentage ingredient listed first, the second highest listed second, and so on. The researchers found that the most comedogenic ingredients were acetylated lanolin alcohol, lanolin acid, isopropyl linoleate, and isopropyl isostearate. The fact that coconut oil is comedogenic is a major bummer, especially since we love to use it as an all-natural make-up remover, which puts the oil right near our sensitive eye area every night! Notify me of follow-up comments by email. I mean, Ive used the cream for years with no break-outs despite having very sensitive, acne-prone skin your article explains why this can be the case. 4 Fairly high. talc comedogenic rating. Below are some brands I have personally used and loved (all non-toxic), and some . 0 is completely non-comedogenic ( can be used safely by people with acne prone skin) 1 is slightly comedogenic ( can be used by people with acne prone skin) 2-3 is moderately comedogenic (should be avoided by people with acne prone skin ) They were done on mice so they don't always apply to humans. Acne.org does not advertise. Other ingredients are added to reduce the appearance of excess shine such as oil absorbent compounds, for example, kaolin, talc. Ingredients are ranked on a comedogenic scale: 0 - non-comedogenic 1 - slightly comedogenic 2-3 - moderately comedogenic 4-5 - highly comedogenic If true, comedogenicity would be an important consideration in the development of products applied to the skin, especially facial skin which is more susceptible to comedones. Because rabbit ears are more sensitive than human skin, they reacted to comedogenic products faster, which was more convenient. Therefore, the REA method can produce results within two to three weeks, while the human method can take up to six months in some cases. When the slide is removed, the glue sticks to and removes the uppermost layer of the skin. Comedogenicity ratings can help you navigate these somewhat, if your skin is prone to breakouts. Also, REA comedogenicity does not apply to humans, necessarily. Its hard to say I think theyre pretty similar since its the fats that are comedogenic. This wasnt the first time the rabbit ear tests were questioned conflicting results were commonplace, and comedogenicity lists frequently disagreed with each other (and still do). Although jojoba oil has the potential to clog pores, it's not very likely. I have used a few of the Grade 4-5 ingredients over the course of time on my acne skin and never had any issues, so I actually never bothered checking. If an ingredient is comedogenic (4-5) and is high up in the ingredient list (so there is more of it in the product) and you are prone to comedones, you might want to reconsider or read some extra reviews from people with similar skin type. And in my 10+ years of client work, this list is extremely reliable and trustworthy. 1. To determine the comedogenicity of a cosmetic ingredient, scientists use one of two methods: Rabbit ear assay [Note: Acne.org does not test on animals]. When choosing a cosmetic product for use on acne-prone skin, it is important to consider if its ingredients are comedogenic. I checked a comedogenicity chart just yesterday and was wondering how reliable it was. - Fatty acids that are large and branched tended to be more comedogenic. I love this blog because it a major component of it is understanding the interactions between beauty products and human physiology. False positive is more of a problem with the Rabbit Ear Model than false negative. Development of an Objective Comedogenicity Assay. What an interesting article! J Soc Cosmet Chem 34, 215 - 225 (1983). Comedogenicity was determined using the histological examination method. They are not, but they give useful extra info about the ingredients. All products contain less than 0.3% THC. Its hard for me to recommend other blogs because with digging, a lot of the science-based ones I used to trust have turned out to have incorrect info >.< kindofstephen.com is good though! I agree with this. Whichever method is used, researchers report on the comedogenicity of a cosmetic ingredient with a scale. Here is a list of the most commonly used carrier oils and their comedogenic ratings: Argan Oil - 0. Non? Oxybenzone- ingredient in chemical sunscreens.. is carcinogenic, causes free radical damage, and increases photosensitivity The researchers found that the most comedogenic ingredients were 5% crude coal tar, sulfur products, acetylated lanolin alcohols, cocoa butter, and lanolin fatty acids. They appear most frequently on the forehead and chin of acne-prone skin and can come in six variations. The concentration matters a lot. Specifically, they found that only ingredients with a grade of 2 or 3 by the REA were comedogenic in humans.7, A 1975 study published in the Archives of Dermatology investigated the comedogenicity of 21 soaps and 18 shampoos using the REA with a scale of 0 - 3. Open comedones: Blackheads, or comedones with bacteria that has reached the surface of the skin and oxidized. 1. Also, the chemistry of the finished formula can change the comedogenicity of the individual ingredients. 1: mildly comedogenic, but still generally good on skin. Comedogenic Rating of 0: No risk - Will not clog your pores: Comedogenic Rating of 1: Low risk - Slight chance of clogging pores: Comedogenic Rating of 2: Moderately low risk - Will not clog pores for MOST people. CBD For Focus And Concentration: Can CBD Help Energy and Focus. Next, since various ingredients interact with one another in product formulas, some final products that contain a comedogenic ingredient may be pore-clogging, while another may not be. The concentration matters a lot. As you introduce new products (either from a DIY or our curated list), make note of how your skin reacts over time. Instead, whats used in most scientific studies is a model a situation that mimics the real world, but is simpler to carry out and control. Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream $79.00 $71.10. Long story short, the comedogenic scale will let you know if your ingredients are likely to clog pores or not. However, the comedogenicity of oils cannot be predicted using them. Groh, D. G., Mills, O. H. & Kligman, A. M. Quantitative assessment of cyanoacrylate follicular biopsies by image analysis. However, this is not the case as several oils are non-comedogenic. Vitalizing and restoring formula with collagen and hyaluronic acid. If youre looking for a non-comedogenic product, meaning that it will not clog your pores, we suggest only using products with ingredients rated a 2 or lower. Silicone-based derivatives are suitable for oily skin. The researchers did this to determine whether the ingredients in the tested products were suspected to be comedogenic or non-comedogenic. Drinking a glass of wine is fine, but 10 glasses will give you a massive hangover and 50 glasses will land you in hospital. 1 Low (Safe for all skin types) For the better, or for the worse. Researchers use rabbits to test for comedogenicity because rabbit ear skin is similar to human skin and develops comedones. Ingredients with a comedogenic rating of 3 or higher are highlighted in red. List 1: Avoid: These are ingredients that were found to be comedogenic in two (2) or more REAs or in at least one (1) human study, List 2: Consider Avoiding: These are ingredients that were found to be comedogenic in only one (1) REA. What may be comedogenic to you may not affect someone elses skin at all. Additionally, the study found that the type of vehicle in which the ingredient is placed also can affect its comedogenicity. Emina Squeeze Me Lip Matte contains gluten, fungal acne feeding components, silicone, synthetic fragrance, and has comedogenic ingredients: Talc [ Comedogenic Rating 1 ] Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil [ Comedogenic Rating 2 ] Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil [ Comedogenic Rating 3 ] Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil [ Comedogenic Rating 3 . After the two- to three-week testing period, researchers examine the number of comedones on the skin. And even if a product contains no comedogenic ingredients, it can still be comedogenic on the skin. Thats not the point at all! What Is Comedogenicity, and What Ingredients Are Comedogenic? The term "comedogenic" comes from the word " comedone ", which is a clogged hair follicle (also known as a pore) inside the skin. Talc and bismuth oxychloride, two ingredients often found in mineral makeup, can sometimes lead to breakouts; even cocoa butter and coconut oil aren't off the hook these beloved ingredients are comedogenic, too. Looking for a non-toxic setting powder? They found that all the soaps and all but one of the shampoos were non-comedogenic. Strauss, J. S. & Jackson, E. M. American Academy of Dermatology Invitational Symposium on Comedogenicity. To help make sense of which skincare ingredients are comedogenic, top dermatological doctors and scientists have put together a comedogenic rating system for the most common oils, vitamins, minerals, botanicals, antioxidants, butter, waxes, and herbs found in skincare products. *The 3rd column, with the irritantancy ratings, will help you if you have sensitive skin, or you are using a product that is irritating and you do not know why. Clogged pores lead to acne. Make-up a akn: Jak vybrat sprvn make-up pro ple s akn - Ne akn! Start studying Working in field of esthetics :Comedogenic Ratings (causing acne) This list of ingredients has been derived and compiled from various sources including the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology. The ingredients to be tested are swabbed on and, Isopropyl isostearate: 100% = 4, 50% = 2-3, 5% = 1-2, Isopropyl myristate: 100% = 2-3, 10% = 1-3, 2.5% = 0, Octyl palmitate: 100% = 2-3, 50% = 1, 5% = 0, Going on a witch hunt and throwing out any products that contain comedogenic ingredients, Not buying a product thats otherwise good, just because it contains a comedogenic ingredient, Looking up ingredients beyond the first 5 or so (even 5 is pushing it itll be very dilute by then), Use comedogenicity ratings as a shortcut to avoid patch testing new products. They may be toxic (rating of 3 on SkinDeep) . Cotton Seed Oil. Funny how two people looking at the same data can end up writing very similar articles. Kligman, A. M. & Katz, A. G. Pathogenesis of acne vulgaris comedogenic properties of human sebum in the external car canal of the rabbit. 4 Fairly High (Very dry skin) An error has occurred. Theres a saying in biology: The dose makes the poison. For example, breathing in humid air doesnt kill you (and is actually good), while breathing in too much water drowns you. Males develop beards, baritone, and muscles. Microcomedones: Comedones too small to be visible by the naked eye. Best Splurge: Oxygenetix Oxygenating Foundation. A Comedogenic Rating of 3 depending . Coconut Oil - 4. Youve no doubt seen non-comedogenic written on oil, moisturizer, and cream bottles but perhaps you arent sure what it means (or how to pronounce it!). Fortunately, jojoba oil is not considered to be comedogenic.
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